 |
| 1st steps to fixing derailleur: braze up one of the hinges and find a bit of metal to make it sit in the right position. |
 |
| Best to do this in a bike stand, it's much easier to test the deraileur mech |
 |
| Cut out the relevant bit of metal and braze it in position |
 |
| And its done and it works. Chain wrap is not quite as good as it could be but need to try this on the road. |
 |
| Photos left off from the last post: Rear suspension comes from an old Checkoslvakian pedal and a few cut-up bits of bike tube. |
 |
| Wrap the tube round the pedal bits |
 |
| and it fits in the frame. Not sure it will work but it looks neat. |
Bike building is going quite well, last weekend I fixed / bodgied up the front derailleur, some mini - v brakes arrived from an on-line order and I found a mob (tgcbuilding.com.au) who do nc routing and ordered the cut to shape timber for the seat. Cross fingers the timber will arrive tomorrow and I can continue to build the beast.
Posts
I am following your new bike build with interest as I have your books etc. Is there any advantage to designing the swing up to fold under the bike, for example storage or shorter wheelbase for hill climbing?
ReplyDeleteHi Brad, Hope you are well. Having the swingarm go under the bike comes in handy every now and then when I put a bike on a train. Its really got nothing to do with handling and is just a by-product of having a fairly simple suspension system. In this bike build the rear pivot arm will be outside the tailbox which will make it a bit simpler to move the swingarm underneath. As well the bottom of the tailbox won't have holes in it and the stuff in the tailbox won't fall out or get dirty or wet from splashes. Heaven Forbid!
ReplyDeleteRegards
Steve Nurse