Tilting Trike frame 2

 

Trike as finished last time - after riding it up a nearby gravelly hill, I found the frame to be too short which meant more weight on the back wheels and less on the driving front. The front wheel slipped a bit on the bigger hills but I used it to check out some testing sites for a model raft.

So I pulled the frame out of this trike and drilled out some extra holes to make

the frame compatible with the front half shown in the top pic.

Weight of timber-based seat and tailbox

Timber box

Weight of fibreglass based tailbox as shown in top pic, just the same!

Wheel Switcheroo

Trike as it is now. Frame is about 80mm longer  which means better hill climbing on gravel. 

Hi

Some more switching this week, I had found the new frame I had made to be too short and did a bit of tweaking on a slightly longer one to replace it. As well, on disassembly, I found a printed lug part of the fibreglass-based seat was damaged. 

So now my "fast trike" has both the frame and tailbox from my previous fast trike as shown immedaitely above.

There was hardly any weight difference between the timber- and fibreglass- based seat and tailbox combos, but I think the fireglass one was more aero. I think I know what to do to improve the timber based tailbox. 

* Remove a bit of timber where its not needed to make it lighter.

* Redo the coreflute at the back and make sure there are no sharp edges - minimum radius 75mm on lower and upper edges.

* Ultimately I might get all - new timber made for the tailbox. If I start from scratch, I should be able to make it better again. The original design was all timber without corflute at the back which is great for shopping, and what I have now is a lighter hack of that.

A few more things to do now!  Regards

Steve nurse